Desert, Mountains and a River: Big Bend National Park

Having stayed in Austin for close to a decade, and being fans of the National Park System, it is strange that we never thought of visiting Big Bend National Park, easily reachable by a seven hour drive. Somehow, I had pictured this park as a hot barren desert. With milder summer days last June, we finally decided to visit, mainly to add another national park to our list. Little did I know that a journey through this park in the south-western corner of Texas would be "an adventure for the perceptions". I compiled this post a while ago, almost at the same time when I wrote the poem Big Bend: An Adventure for the Perceptions, but it stayed buried in the drafts. As an attempt to revive this blog, I sifted through the trip pictures and added a few to this post. Finally, here it is - a textual description of the journey through this national park comprised of a desert, mountains and a river.

As we drove through the seemingly endless Chihuahuan desert, a sense of calmness enveloped me. The quietness and the vast open spaces made me think this land would not sustain anything. Like an elusive veil, the tranquility was trying to mask the numerous plants and animals which called this park their home.What had appeared barren was indeed full of life! The peculiar plants that stood out as tall weird structures and others that showcased extreme adaptation by growing out of rocks and crevices were enough to nourish the many animals ranging from lizards, creepy crawlies, jack rabbits, butterflies, and birds. The park marked the northernmost boundary of many southern species and also the southernmost point to which northern migrating species travel to, thus making it a habitat for a huge variety of wildlife.

Desert plants with mountains in the background

The mountains that were strewn throughout the desert floor appeared much closer than they really were. The openness, which my eyes were not used to, deceived my sense of distance. I did not realize I could see objects much far away as the air here was cleaner, owing to little or no pollution. Though the temperatures were relatively milder, the bright sun bearing down on the open land was quickly wearing me out. Just when I started feeling there will be no relief from the scorching heat of the desert floor, a drive up to the basin formed by the Chisos mountains refreshed me. Although spring was the best time to visit the surrounding desert, the basin was cool year round, including the hottest summer days.

Chisos Basin

With its own micro-climate and visitor facilities for food and lodging, Chisos basin was a mini desitnation by itself and the perfect spot to unwind after a long day of hiking. Where I had least expected to sit back and enjoy a great meal, I found good food and refreshments in a restaurant with unparalleled views. The convenience store had a fair selection of items for a comfortable stay. The lodge and cabins nestled in the mountains seemed to be good places to stretch and cool off after an active day in the park.

Chisos basin window view

The window framed by the mountains on the western side of Chisos basin made this an excellent location to enjoy the sunset. After a hearty meal, it was relaxing to walk down the window view trail and watch the horizon get transformed into an exquisite canvas by the twilight that silhouetted the mountain ranges. As the last bit of light faded away, I got a true sense of darkness and could also comprehend the effects of light pollution in urban areas. This was one of the places in United States with the darkest night skies making it a prime spot for star-gazing.

Burro Mesa pour-off

Though this park had many points of interest for history buffs, the numerous geographic features were what captivated me. The changes brought forth by volcanic activity were visible along the Ross Maxwell scenic drive. On this thirty mile road in the west side of the park, Castolon mountain stood out prominently surrounded by areas that had lighter colored rocks called tuff. Unlike the sound of its name, tuff, a form of compressed volcanic ash, is soft and easily erodes. Walking through the dry Tuff canyon, I realized it does not require raging rivers but just washed off rain water to create canyons in this landscape. The power of water also became evident in Burro Mesa pour-off, where the rain water flowing along Javelina wash and falling off the mountains had cut a vertical box-shaped canyon.

Tuff canyon

Castolon mountain

At base of Santa Elena Canyon

To the far south of the park, the Rio Grande river, which acts as the lifeblood of the desert, adds greenery to the landscape and continues to carve three magnificent canyons in the mountain ranges. Further down the scenic drive, the massive wall of mountains that came into sight seemed impenetrable. It was difficult to believe that the thin line seen on this wall was in fact the huge Santa Elena canyon. Only when I reached its base, after wading through the muddy waters of Terlingua creek, did I realize how wrongly I had estimated both the size of the canyon as well as the potential of the river that flowed low and slow through the giant mountain.

View of Santa Elena Canyon from across the river

Awed by the enormity of the canyon, I sat listening to the gritting sound of the river filled with mud and dirt that continued to chafe and sculpt the limestone walls of the mountain. The people on boats were tiny specks against the walls rising to the sky that appeared as a blue ribbon. I wished we could come back and experience this spectacular canyon at sunrise when the walls would be turned golden by the rising sun.

Port of Entry

Starting from Colorado, the Rio Grande river flows south and then, bends sharply at the south side of this park, thus giving it the name Big Bend. This river also acts as the international boundary between United States and Mexico with formalized border crossings from the east side of the park to the Mexican town of Boquillas.

From U.S to Mexico

Mexican art for sale

On the second day, we headed to the eastern side of the park and took a trail that first climbed up and then brought us down to the gigantic Boquillas canyon. Along the trail, we passed several souvenirs left for sale by Mexicans many of whom where waiting in their country with canoes, mules, and pickup trucks. They seemed eager to haul visitors across the river and into their little town filled with colorful buildings. With the river being shallow, it was possible to just wade across and we did see some folks cross on foot from USA to Mexico.

On reaching the river bed, I was once again humbled by the power of nature. Surrounded by huge mountain walls, I walked alongside the river and imagined how it would feel to float down the river along the majestic walls of these canyons. The third one in the center of the park, Mariscal canyon, was not easily accessible via trails. We would have to visit in late summer or fall when the water levels would generally be high enough to allow for such activities. Well, it was good that we could at least hike and view two of these splendid canyons.

At Boquillas Canyon

Heading back from the east end, Rio Grande village proved to be an excellent picnic spot, much like an oasis. The green shaded areas with towering trees were surrounded by small lakes and serene trails with mountains views. With soaring temperatures, we decided not to visit the hot springs area or take any other desert trails.

Trails around Rio Grande village

Before the long drive back home, we stopped at the Panther Junction visitor center to watch a movie about the park, which gets played upon request. For anyone who has not visited the park, the short movie had enough to set them out to explore this diverse land. For us, it gave time to relax and relive the sights. With plenty of information and tips to plan another trip to this land of contrasts, we returned home thinking how cool it would be to embark on another "adventure for the perceptions".