Monday, October 8, 2018

Desert, Mountains and a River: Big Bend National Park

Having stayed in Austin for close to a decade, and being fans of the National Park System, it is strange that we never thought of visiting Big Bend National Park, easily reachable by a seven hour drive. Somehow, I had pictured this park as a hot barren desert. With milder summer days last June, we finally decided to visit, mainly to add another national park to our list. Little did I know that a journey through this park in the south-western corner of Texas would be "an adventure for the perceptions". I compiled this post a while ago, almost at the same time when I wrote the poem Big Bend: An Adventure for the Perceptions, but it stayed buried in the drafts. As an attempt to revive this blog, I sifted through the trip pictures and added a few to this post. Finally, here it is - a textual description of the journey through this national park comprised of a desert, mountains and a river.



As we drove through the seemingly endless Chihuahuan desert, a sense of calmness enveloped me. The quietness and the vast open spaces made me think this land would not sustain anything. Like an elusive veil, the tranquility was trying to mask the numerous plants and animals which called this park their home.What had appeared barren was indeed full of life! The peculiar plants that stood out as tall weird structures and others that showcased extreme adaptation by growing out of rocks and crevices were enough to nourish the many animals ranging from lizards, creepy crawlies, jack rabbits, butterflies, and birds. The park marked the northernmost boundary of many southern species and also the southernmost point to which northern migrating species travel to, thus making it a habitat for a huge variety of wildlife.

Desert plants with mountains in the background

The mountains that were strewn throughout the desert floor appeared much closer than they really were. The openness, which my eyes were not used to, deceived my sense of distance. I did not realize I could see objects much far away as the air here was cleaner, owing to little or no pollution. Though the temperatures were relatively milder, the bright sun bearing down on the open land was quickly wearing me out. Just when I started feeling there will be no relief from the scorching heat of the desert floor, a drive up to the basin formed by the Chisos mountains refreshed me. Although spring was the best time to visit the surrounding desert, the basin was cool year round, including the hottest summer days.

Chisos Basin

With its own micro-climate and visitor facilities for food and lodging, Chisos basin was a mini desitnation by itself and the perfect spot to unwind after a long day of hiking. Where I had least expected to sit back and enjoy a great meal, I found good food and refreshments in a restaurant with unparalleled views. The convenience store had a fair selection of items for a comfortable stay. The lodge and cabins nestled in the mountains seemed to be good places to stretch and cool off after an active day in the park.


Chisos basin window view


The window framed by the mountains on the western side of Chisos basin made this an excellent location to enjoy the sunset. After a hearty meal, it was relaxing to walk down the window view trail and watch the horizon get transformed into an exquisite canvas by the twilight that silhouetted the mountain ranges. As the last bit of light faded away, I got a true sense of darkness and could also comprehend the effects of light pollution in urban areas. This was one of the places in United States with the darkest night skies making it a prime spot for star-gazing.

Burro Mesa pour-off
Though this park had many points of interest for history buffs, the numerous geographic features were what captivated me. The changes brought forth by volcanic activity were visible along the Ross Maxwell scenic drive. On this thirty mile road in the west side of the park, Castolon mountain stood out prominently surrounded by areas that had lighter colored rocks called tuff. Unlike the sound of its name, tuff, a form of compressed volcanic ash, is soft and easily erodes. Walking through the dry Tuff canyon, I realized it does not require raging rivers but just washed off rain water to create canyons in this landscape. The power of water also became evident in Burro Mesa pour-off, where the rain water flowing along Javelina wash and falling off the mountains had cut a vertical box-shaped canyon.

Tuff canyon
Castolon mountain

At base of Santa Elena Canyon
To the far south of the park, the Rio Grande river, which acts as the lifeblood of the desert, adds greenery to the landscape and continues to carve three magnificent canyons in the mountain ranges. Further down the scenic drive, the massive wall of mountains that came into sight seemed impenetrable. It was difficult to believe that the thin line seen on this wall was in fact the huge Santa Elena canyon. Only when I reached its base, after wading through the muddy waters of Terlingua creek, did I realize how wrongly I had estimated both the size of the canyon as well as the potential of the river that flowed low and slow through the giant mountain.

View of Santa Elena Canyon from across the river


Awed by the enormity of the canyon, I sat listening to the gritting sound of the river filled with mud and dirt that continued to chafe and sculpt the limestone walls of the mountain. The people on boats were tiny specks against the walls rising to the sky that appeared as a blue ribbon. I wished we could come back and experience this spectacular canyon at sunrise when the walls would be turned golden by the rising sun.



Port of Entry
Starting from Colorado, the Rio Grande river flows south and then, bends sharply at the south side of this park, thus giving it the name Big Bend. This river also acts as the international boundary between United States and Mexico with formalized border crossings from the east side of the park to the Mexican town of Boquillas.




From U.S to Mexico
Mexican art for sale
On the second day, we headed to the eastern side of the park and took a trail that first climbed up and then brought us down to the gigantic Boquillas canyon. Along the trail, we passed several souvenirs left for sale by Mexicans many of whom where waiting in their country with canoes, mules, and pickup trucks. They seemed eager to haul visitors across the river and into their little town filled with colorful buildings. With the river being shallow, it was possible to just wade across and we did see some folks cross on foot from USA to Mexico.

On reaching the river bed, I was once again humbled by the power of nature. Surrounded by huge mountain walls, I walked alongside the river and imagined how it would feel to float down the river along the majestic walls of these canyons. The third one in the center of the park, Mariscal canyon, was not easily accessible via trails. We would have to visit in late summer or fall when the water levels would generally be high enough to allow for such activities. Well, it was good that we could at least hike and view two of these splendid canyons.


At Boquillas Canyon

Heading back from the east end, Rio Grande village proved to be an excellent picnic spot, much like an oasis. The green shaded areas with towering trees were surrounded by small lakes and serene trails with mountains views. With soaring temperatures, we decided not to visit the hot springs area or take any other desert trails.

Trails around Rio Grande village

Before the long drive back home, we stopped at the Panther Junction visitor center to watch a movie about the park, which gets played upon request. For anyone who has not visited the park, the short movie had enough to set them out to explore this diverse land. For us, it gave time to relax and relive the sights. With plenty of information and tips to plan another trip to this land of contrasts, we returned home thinking how cool it would be to embark on another "adventure for the perceptions".

Sunday, March 27, 2016

Spring is in the air - A visit to Carlsbad Flower Fields


Today, my mind drifts back to the time we had visited the flower fields in Carlsbad in Southern California. It was the first time I had witnessed such a bounty of natural color brought forth by this splendid season: Spring!

The Flower Fields, Carlsbad



Once again, it is that wonderful time of the year when nature unfolds its magic, rolling out carpets of fresh blooms, decorating bare branches with blossoms, and filling the air with sweet fragrances and melodious bird songs. Spring is in the air! Rewinding back a dozen springs, I can picture us in the lovely flower fields in the small seaside town of Carlsbad. 



At that time, we were living in Sunnyvale, California and had driven more than 400 miles south to view this fabulous seasonal display. After the long drive, we must have spent just two hours walking through these fields before heading back. Sounds crazy? Yes, it was! Considering the busy schedule of a job along with course work, it was indeed a crazy time. What better way to beat the crazy "busy-ness" than with a dose of splendid colors ?

A colorful mix
These fields, primarily filled with Giant Tecolote Ranunculus flowers, are usually in bloom from early March to early May. Though the flowers themselves were not exotic, the sheer number and variety of colors made way for a magnificent panorama. 

Ranunculus flowers


Other varieties of flowers
Another view of the flower fields with the town of Carlsbad



The pictures you have seen on this page are old ones that were taken with our first digital camera and they may not impress you much. If you would like to get a better view and  more information, I suggest checking out the website or facebook page for these fields:
http://www.theflowerfields.com/
https://www.facebook.com/TheFlowerFields

Friday, March 4, 2016

Up the Enchanted Rock

"Good news ! I climbed all the way up the Enchanted Rock and it was really fun."

Climbing Enchanted Rock !

This page in our son's kindergarten journal amused us. In his class, they used to write in a journal every Monday, capturing the best activity from the previous weekend. Choosing the visit to Enchanted Rock over his fun birthday party at Chuck E Cheese's, speaks volumes about the place. The sense of achievement he must have felt on climbing up the rock made him jot this down as a wonderful memory.

Located a little over an hour away from our house in Austin, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is a part of Texas State Park system. The massive pink granite dome, referred to as the Enchanted Rock, is visible from miles away. Though there are many legends about why it is named so, the appearance of this huge batholith amidst the vast greenery is enough to make the visitors feel enchanted.

Enchanted Visitors

Enchanted Rock

Among the numerous trails, the one that goes to the summit is the most popular. As we neared the park entrance, we could see colorful specks all over the huge rock. These were people going up and down the summit trail.

On the Summit Trail  !
Up we go ..

As we climbed up, it was great to look back and see the cars in the parking lot get smaller and smaller. With sweeping green vistas of Hill Country, the trail to the summit was a steady climb. The descent was the harder part putting more stress on the leg muscles. All of us, including my brother and sister-in-law who were visiting, enjoyed this pleasant hike on the warm winter day.

At the top !

A few months later, when my parents visited, we decided not to go on the summit trail, considering my dad's knee condition and my mom's susceptibility to wheezing. If at all we visited, we thought we could take other trails around the rock. After couple of weekends of active hiking on numerous trails in and around Austin, they felt ready to head up the Enchanted Rock. It was August, the peak of hot Texas summer. We had to visit early before the heat made the bare rocky landscape intolerable.

Here we come ..

Almost there ..

With ample breaks, my parents made it to the top and back without any setbacks. The kids were faster and enjoyed playing in the cool shade of a tree as they waited.


Hand in hand ...

Yay! We made it !










Welcome to Fredericksburg
When we reached the base, our son asked "When are more people going to visit us? We can bring them here!". To complement his invitation, we now have the perfect place paired with this hike! The quaint German town of Fredericksburg, with its laid-back, take-it-easy attitude, is an excellent stopover for food and shopping. Even in the hottest summer afternoons, the awnings that line the main street provide shade and make it a cool place to walk around. A delectable lunch followed by a walk among shops filled with antiques and other trivia adds to the enchanting experience.

After a hearty meal at Auslander restaurant
Shaded paths for better window shopping

And benches for tired feet


To sit back and read interesting facts ;)

So, who will be next to try this fine "hike and food" pairing?

Saturday, February 27, 2016

Snow-Capped Hoodoos - Eerie but Extraordinary !

"We would like to cancel our hotel reservation for tomorrow", my husband called in from Las Vegas to the hotel we had reserved near Bryce Canyon National Park. "Sure, I can do that", came the reply. How glad I am that the conversation did not end there! The hotel clerk continued to ask, "Are you cancelling because of bad weather? If so, I should tell you it is really beautiful around here. The roads are kept clear of snow and it should be safe to drive.". That suggestion made us go ahead with our plan to visit two spectacular national parks: Bryce Canyon and Zion, located in Utah. Back in those days, when companies used to shutdown for winter break, we had a whole week of vacation and had driven to Vegas, a ten hour drive from Silicon Valley.

Las Vegas Strip

Spending the whole vacation in Vegas had not sounded very appealing. A break from the glitter and crowds of Vegas was indeed a welcome change. It turned out to be an awesome trip through the breath-taking landscape of Southern Utah. The rock formations that studded this landscape came in all forms and sizes, and in a multitude of shades of red. After all, we were in Red Rock Country!

In Red Rock Country


What do you get if you add some white to this? A treat for your eyes! It may be one thing to see these places in summer but it was totally out of the world to see it in winter. Out of the two parks, Bryce Canyon with its snow-capped hoodoos was a winter wonderland.

Queens Garden Trail


Spot an elephant ?
The white snow on top of the red spires added to the splendor. These spires of rocks, referred to as hoodoos, are continuing to evolve through erosion. It was fun to walk among them and spot familiar shapes like an elephant, castle and many more. The fresh powdery snow from the previous day made for a pleasant walk through Queens Garden Trail.






A magnificient castle
 As amazing it was to walk among these hoodos, it was more so to watch them from a higher view point. It felt like we were witnessing a giant congregation of eerie white-headed beings.

A close view of hoodos

A panoramic view in Bryce Canyon National Park

The landmark that was referred to as the Wall of Windows resembled the walls of some ancient palaces in India. This and few other areas had lighter shade of rocks.

Wall of Windows


Driving through roads flanked by white fields of snow under sunny blue skies among red rock formations, it was absolutely beautiful all around. Just like the hotel clerk had said!


Zion National Park
Our luck with the weather was not so great the next day. It was dark and gloomy when we visited Zion. This park had huge monolithic rocks and numerous narrow trails that wound through them. On one such trail, it felt as if we were walking through a tiny crack in a mountain. The icicles formed on some of the overhanging rocks were a beautiful sight. However, the trail was too icy and slippery which made us turn around after a short distance. We continued to drive around on the park roads which were tinted red to blend in with the reddish rocky landscape. With landmarks such as Checkerboard Mesa, a mountain with cross-hatched patterns, this park was like a giant canvas of rocks. Due to rough weather conditions, we could only explore a tiny bit of this stunning park. Thinking we should visit Zion again in summer, we drove back to Vegas.


In Bryce Canyon National Park


After an interesting week, enjoying both the man-made richness of Vegas and the natural beauty of Red Rock Country, we returned back to high-tech Silicon Valley. An end of a wonderful trip! And, what was the highlight?  Celebrating our anniversary among the snow-capped hoodoos - eerie but extraordinary !

Saturday, February 6, 2016

360 degree view of 360 Bridge


Seeing my third grader learn geometry, my mind circles back and darts off to many points in the past: adventurous hikes to apexes of mountains; long waits in lines to get to top of skyscrapers; aerial tours that fly in circles over beautiful terrains. What is common with all of these, one may ask. To answer in geometric terms, they all give amazing 360 degree views !!!

Guadalupe peak; At theTop, Dubai; Wings over Kauai aerial tour

Speaking of 360 degree views, it was quite interesting to get such a view of one of the landmarks of Austin: Pennybacker Bridge, more commonly referred to as 360 Bridge.


360 bridge


On a Friday evening, this past summer, we drove down to this bridge to view the sunset. The road that leads to the bridge is flanked on both sides by limestone walls and gives a true feel of the Austin terrain where limestone is the most prevalent rock type.

Limestone walls along Loop 360

Previously, when we had driven by, we had noticed people parking on the left side of the road after crossing the bridge from the north. The information on the web had mentioned this to be a good spot to park and walk up a trail to the top. It was a short but steep climb. We reached the top to catch the gorgeous sunset in time.

Short but steep trail to top

Sunset over the lake


We could see the downtown skyline in the distance, the bridge down close, and the beautiful lake beneath.The area at the top is not bounded which meant we had to keep a close watch on the kids. Before it got dark, we headed back to avoid going down the steep slope in darkness.

Austin skyline in the distance



A group photo with the bridge

It was a short fun outing right in the middle of town. The amusing part was that it was the first time we had hiked up for this view. Having been in Austin for a decade, we had not been here before; hence had not taken any of our younger friends or relatives who had visited us earlier. Anyways, now we have one more place added to our Visit Austin itinerary. Looking forward to put it into action soon.

Check out this link if you need more information: http://www.austintexas.org/austin-insider-blog/360-bridge/